Raze, for the love of God, it all varies by species. If you feed any corallus weekly as adults, you will kill them from overfeeding. If you feed adult drymarchon weekly, you are starving them. If you feed a
BCI something 1.5 times it's girth size, it will probably be fine but not want to eat again for awhile. If you feed a
BCC something exactly it's girth size or as mentioned a mouse, there's a good chance for puke. It's best to feed most
BCC something a little smaller than their girth. If you feed a rainbow boa something slight smaller or right at girth size, they won't freaking grow. If you try and feed rainbow multiple food items to make them grow rather than feed larger items, they puke. Tiger ratsnakes do OK on girth size or larger items but by nature are nasty little nest raiders and will chow down on SEVERAL small items per feeding and could eat just about daily if you really wanted to. If you handle a boa much after feeding, they are liable to puke. If you feed a burm or retic and swing him over your head like a lasso, he'll probably bite you but likely won't puke. If you feed spoiled rats to a boa, they will likely puke. Cottonmouths, copperheads and kingsnakes seem to prefer a little rot. EVERY species has their quirks so please stop trying to simplify snake care with such broad strokes. A good gradient within the range specific of a given species is good for most snakes but in no way is it the only factor in regurges across the board. Regardless of the temp gradients or time spent basking, SOME species and even subspecies can't handle things that others can. These general broad strokes you are painting are in many cases quite ridiculous.
Depleted gut flora causes food to rot rather than metabolize. Gases form and cause bloat and then puke.
Temps too cool cause the same thing
Temps too hot, cause the same thing...Gut flora has temp requirements too and can die off under poor conditions temperaturewise. This is evident from all the overheated snakes that can't hold anything down even long after they are corrected but turn around quickly with the use of probiotics.
Parasites...cause regurges.
Food too large cause regurges.
Some species don't handle multiple food items and will regurge
Frequent feedings that don't allow for proper digestion and replentishing gut flora...cause pukes. Would warmer temps help? depends. Maybe they are already maxed. You can't just assume that everyone keeps their snakes too cool. From what I've seen, most people keep them too hot
IMO...especially ball pythons.
mouse hair...a lot of snakes puke up mice but hold rats down fine. We all assume it's the hair but who knows?
Self Defense...Here's one I bet you didn't consider. A lot of snakes will puke up a heavy meal when it feels threatened just to lighten the load for escape. They have complete control over peristaltic muscles and can regurge at will without need of being sick.
