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05-10-2008, 02:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danktat
A house cat's diet is nothing like that of a domestic dog. Though they could "survive" on the food of the other, the nutritional requirements and feed regimine are different and one species will eventually suffer if fed like the other.
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If they are both fed raw their diet is very similar.
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when I was little I dreamed of giant snakes and dragons.... now I live with them.
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05-10-2008, 02:31 AM
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I keep my birds in open air bird cages. I have snakes from the same locales as my birds. I don't keep my snakes in bird cages though. I know this has nothing to do with anything but neither does some guy who plans to keep Australian pythons in the same type setup he keeps his Australian lizards in. Was there a point in all that? Even if there is, does this mean that everyone should follow and do the same? Does it apply to all snakes or just certain ones? I wonder if Australian sea snakes would do ok in a lizard cage. I bet not but I'm sure sea snakes eat bats when they can 
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05-10-2008, 02:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razeraze
If they are both fed raw their diet is very similar.
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But since most aren't because they are captive animals and not free range then they are not.
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05-10-2008, 02:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razeraze
Can the hole snake fit on these? One of the things I found asking about burns and high temps is the basking surface should span the length of the reptile. If it is focused on a tiny spot (heat rocks and spot halogens are famous for this) the snake will burn it's self trying to raise it's body core temperature to aid in digestion (monitors do this as well).
When I set up a basking or cooling area I make sure the snake is completely away from one or the other. So if the snake wants to bask at 110F it should not be touching any cools pots, if the snake wants to retreat from the heat it should not be touching any hot spots. My air temperatures range from 80-90F but my surface temperatures range from 76F- 110F, now in the monitor cages ambient is the same but surfaces range fro 70F- 140F
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Of course you DO realize that evidence points that snakes detect heat better from above than below? It seems to take longer for snakes to realize that they are too hot when the heat source is emanating from below. This is likely why we saw (and still do see) cooked snakes on heat rocks when there is plenty of places to escape to cooler temperatures. Conversely, you will never see a cooked snake with faulty overhead heat when there is refuge. I would NEVER recommend a surface temperature of 119 degrees! That is just waiting for trouble to happen. One small malfunction and you have a cooked snake. Of course, luckily that snake seems to be avoiding the hot spot.
But other than feeding and temps, I don't see an issue with your husbandry 
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05-10-2008, 02:38 AM
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Raze....if you ever get into a venomous snakes, you are a dead man. Just so you know. If you turn a venomous snake of any kind loose in an oversized cage full of dirt, burrows, a pond liner they could squeeze under, foliage etc...good luck with cage maintenance and not getting bit.
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05-10-2008, 02:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JuliusSqueezer
I keep my birds in open air bird cages. I have snakes from the same locales as my birds. I don't keep my snakes in bird cages though. I know this has nothing to do with anything but neither does some guy who plans to keep Australian pythons in the same type setup he keeps his Australian lizards in. Was there a point in all that? Even if there is, does this mean that everyone should follow and do the same? Does it apply to all snakes or just certain ones? I wonder if Australian sea snakes would do ok in a lizard cage. I bet not but I'm sure sea snakes eat bats when they can 
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Actually Julius one of the biggest problems with tropical birds is not having proper humidity. My vet constantly badgers people about having a proper hot, humid set up for tropical birds. He set up a room specifically for tropical animals because it is so important. Again because it can be done does not mean it is right. I have seen iguanas kept in bird cages for 10 years and the owner would claim it was the best way to keep it. Now I do not research birds I am stating what my avian and reptile vet said (he is much more into birds than reptiles though).
Dank many people are making the switch to raw diets in captivity. Stalk when he posted here claimed that wolves and dogs have virtually no plants in their system for a wild diet.
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when I was little I dreamed of giant snakes and dragons.... now I live with them.
Dr. Ian Malcolm: "Oh, yeah. Oooh, ahhh, that's how it always starts. Then later there's running and screaming."
Jurassic park
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05-10-2008, 02:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JuliusSqueezer
Raze....if you ever get into a venomous snakes, you are a dead man. Just so you know. If you turn a venomous snake of any kind loose in an oversized cage full of dirt, burrows, a pond liner they could squeeze under, foliage etc...good luck with cage maintenance and not getting bit.
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Don't worry I have no desire to keep venomous snakes. I admit it would be incredibly dangerous to try and pull a venomous snake out of a large enclosure. Although it reminds of when Mike Rowe went to New Braunfels, TX and cleaned the rattlesnake pit.
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when I was little I dreamed of giant snakes and dragons.... now I live with them.
Dr. Ian Malcolm: "Oh, yeah. Oooh, ahhh, that's how it always starts. Then later there's running and screaming."
Jurassic park
Last edited by razeraze; 05-10-2008 at 02:48 AM.
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05-10-2008, 02:43 AM
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If I lived up near the great lakes, I'd worry about relative humidity. I live in Georgia. If I added to the relative humidity here, we'd all drown.
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05-10-2008, 02:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razeraze
Can the whole snake fit on these?
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Yes indeed.
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05-10-2008, 02:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razeraze
Can the whole snake fit on these? One of the things I found asking about burns and high temps is the basking surface should span the length of the reptile. If it is focused on a tiny spot (heat rocks and spot halogens are famous for this) the snake will burn it's self trying to raise it's body core temperature to aid in digestion (monitors do this as well).
When I set up a basking or cooling area I make sure the snake is completely away from one or the other. So if the snake wants to bask at 110F it should not be touching any cools pots, if the snake wants to retreat from the heat it should not be touching any hot spots. My air temperatures range from 80-90F but my surface temperatures range from 76F- 110F, now in the monitor cages ambient is the same but surfaces range fro 70F- 140F
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Dang it Raze, I'm starting to feel bad from picking all this stuff apart but cmon...The basking spot should span the LENGTH of the reptile? Are you telling me that a 15 foot python should have a 15 foot basking area? Don't you think it would be OK if they curled up a little bit? I don't think a 30 plus foot long cage is going to be possible for most people. Even if we had 30 foot rooms, how's that thing coming in or out the door and around corners?
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