Caring for your Amarali (Bolivian or Brazilian) boa.
CAGING
Cage Options and Sizes:
So what's the best cage for a baby boa? If you MUST use a glass aquarium style tank, it's important to remember that babies need their private space, in an area where there won't be much "traffic", and that humidity is hard to keep in tanks with screen lids. Some encounter heat issues as well, if the cage is in a room with drafts or unstable temperatures. Babies kept in this type of set up may also do better if given multiple hides. If the boa is very young (more easily stressed) and/or in a moderate to high activity area, or if you don't have the time to mess with temperatures or to mist the cage multiple times a day, it may do best in a rubbermaid or "tub" type set-up. I recommend the STC 410 Tub from ReptileTubs.com. These will reduce stress because they are less transparent, and will hold heat and humidity better. Make sure there are plenty of holes drilled into the tub for proper ventilation. The holes should not be tiny, but not large enough for the boa to stick it's nose through. Most people choose to heat tubs with human heating pads, heat tape, heat rope, or an under-tank heater. When using glass tanks, or other caging, a combination of over-head heat and "belly" heat works best.
CHE's (ceramic heat emitters) work well in heat lamps for over-head heating. It's important to connect any heat source to a thermostat or dimmer to achieve the right temperatures.
As your boa grows, it's cage size will need to grow with it. Juveniles that are 30" - 40" in length can be housed in a cage that is 30" long x 12" deep, or slightly larger. Boas that are 40" - 50" in length can be housed in a cage that is 36" long x 18" deep. And boas over 50" are ready for an "adult" cage, which should be at least 48" long x 24" deep". Large boas are incredibly strong, so their enclosure must be secure and escape-proof. Height of the enclosure is not very important, as boas spend most of their time on the "ground." You can find sturdy, well-made larger and adult sized cages at the following sources:
- Animal Plastics Caging (
WWW.ANIMALPLASTICS.COM )
- Boaphile Plastics (
WWW.BOAPHILEPLASTICS.COM )
- Vision Cages (
WWW.VISIONCAGES.COM )
Temperatures and Heating:
Giving your boa a proper temperature gradient is very important. Keep your heat source(s) on one end of the set-up, allowing for temperature variants from side to side of the cage. Temperatures should be taken with a reliable thermometer (NOT the cheap stick-on ones sold at pet stores!), right above the substrate (floor of the cage). I recommend using the PE-1 Temp Gun from ProExotics.com. It's cheap ($25), reliable, and takes instant readings.
Ideal temperatures on the hot side of the cage should range from 85 - 88°, with a "basking spot" of 87 - 90°, and never hotter than 92°. The basking spot is a small area on the hot end of the enclosure, used by boas after meals to help with digestion, and to warm up when needed. The basking spot is generally right above or below the heat source. Temperatures above 90° are completely unnecessary, and temperatures of 95° and higher can be potentially harmful, if not fatal, to your boa. The lowest temperatures on the cool side of the cage should be around 75-78°. Prolonged exposure to temperatures below 70° can cause respiratory infections and in-proper digestion. Once again, thermostats and dimmers can be used to control the amount of power a heatsource gives out, and can greatly help you with achieving proper temperatures.
Humidity:
Boas do best when the humidity is between 50 - 60%. Amarali do seem more tolerant of lower humidity than some subspecies, but they will thrive in the above conditions. Always keep reliable humidity gauges (hygrometers) on each end of the boa's enclosure, placed near the floor of the cage. Proper humidity can be maintained in various ways, including misting the enclosure with warm water, keeping damp sphagnum or reptile moss in the corners of the enclosure, placing the boa's water dish near the heat sources, and/or keeping a humidifier in the same room as the boa. A large water dish alone in a tub or rubbermaid set-up may be enough to maintain proper humidity. Humidity should be raised to 70-80% when your boa enters a shed cycle, to ensure a good clean shed. But keep in mind that extended exposure to extremely high humidity and very wet conditions can cause respiratory infections and scale rot. Do not over-mist, and always check your gauges. Drop the humidity back down to 50 - 60% once the boa finishes shedding, and always give the boa a completely dry spot or two somewhere within it's cage.
Bedding/Substrate:
I've found that a loose, reptile-safe bedding usually works best. I recommend aspen shavings. Aspen is easy to clean and holds moisture well. Coconut bark and Reptile bark are more attractive looking substrates, and they work well also. However they may bleed their color, staining water dishes and even your boa. DO NOT use standard gravel, soil, sand, wood chips, sawdust, or cat litter for bedding.
Hiding Spots:
Baby boas especially should be given hide spots. A place to hide will help them feel more secure in their surroundings, and will provide a nice dark space to sleep during the day. Hide spots should be snug. Half-logs sold at pet stores look nice and work well, but you can make cheap hides out of cardboard boxes or upside down flower pots. When cutting an entry hole in a homemade hide, make sure that the edges are not sharp.
Water Dish:
A heavy dish large enough for your boa to soak in will work great. Boas may choose to soak when they want to cool down, before they shed, or when they just feel like taking a swim. If your boa soaks excessively when not in shed, check the temperatures and humidity, and check for mites or any other health problems. Clean the water dish once a week, or whenever it starts to get dirty, with soap and hot water.
Cleaning:
Clean up after your boa, and completely change the substrate once a month. Change it sooner if you notice any mold. Be sure to check underneath the top layer of substrate for mold or any discoloration, especially around the water dish. Use soap and water to clean your boa's enclosure, and DO NOT use any harsh chemicals or sprays.
FEEDING
Amarali boas are known for holding back feces from multiple (sometimes 4 or even 5!) meals. This can cause bloat and discomfort, and sometimes further complications requiring some rather nasty, invasive attention from your vet. So it's best to feed these boas according to their poop! You want your boa to deficate
at least after every other meal.
Prey Items:
Never feed your boa a live rodent. Live prey can inflict serious injuries or even kill a snake. Only feed pre-killed or frozen then thawed rodents to your pet. I try to always feed rats. Studies show that rats are somewhat higher in nutrition than mice, and boas appear to prefer the taste and smell over mice. Prey size depends on the girth of your boa. A meal should be the same size (in thickness) or just slightly larger as the widest part of your boa's body. Remember, a meal that is too large will cause some serious discomfort and possibly regurgitation. New born boas feed readily on rat pinkies (1 - 4 day old rats). As your boa grows, you'll need to increase the size of it's prey. When the prey no longer leaves a lump in your boa's belly, it's time to step it up in size. Amarali may not reach the lengths some subspecies do, but they are impressively thick bodied, and a large adult may feed on xxl rats, or even small rabbits if you prefer.
Feeding Frequency:
A baby Amarali should remain healthy and grow at a steady pace when fed once every 7 days. But as I mentioned before, you want your boa to poop after every other meal. So feed twice (one meal, then another according to schedule.. 7-14 days later depending on size) and then wait for a bowel movement before feeding again. This can take up to two or even three weeks, but that's perfectly fine. Your boa will grow normally and remain healthy.
Should your Amarali hold feces for a considerable amount of time (3-4 + weeks), try giving it a nice soak in luke-warm water for about one hour. The warm water can definitely help "move things along."
When your pet starts to eat small rats, you can increase the time between feedings to every 14 days (breaking for bowel movements when necessary). Sub-adult and adult boas eating large - xxxl rats do well when fed every 2-4 weeks. But every boa is different, so if you notice that your boa is losing weight or looking thin, you may need to feed more frequently (but never more than once a week). If the boa is gaining too much weight, you may need to feed less often to avoid obesity. Don't mistake "built" muscle tone for fat (these boas pack some power) and visa versa.
Water:
You must provide your boa with fresh, clean water at all times.
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Bolivian and Brazilian Boa (Boa C. Amarali) Care
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